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This article is part of the FT Globetrotter's guide to Madrid
When it comes to the capital's chic neighbourhoods, Madrid's chic Salamanca district is one of the most fun to walk around – there's a sense of luxury and ease, and plenty of great shopping, but none of the cold elegance of Paris or New York. And at its heart is the Bless Hotel, in a 19th-century building (called Velasquez in an earlier incarnation, my taxi driver told me) that now welcomes the passing world with huge glass doors at street level that open fully into the lively bar area. This is the Pinzelada lounge – anything from a cup of tea to cocktails, music and very good snacks – with a relaxed mood and crowded enough at most times of the day.
The hotel's interiors were redesigned by designer Lazaro Rosa Violan in a style that I can only call eclectic. Patterns and swirls, ruffled fabrics and flowers on carpets, eccentricity and tradition, hot colors and skewed lighting: this is the complete maximum. The busy reception area is designed as a study room surrounded by books – but all the books are mirrored, spines against the wall, leaving monochrome page-edged shelves. Oh. The breakfast room features a life-sized, bronze-effect unicorn hanging from a massive octagonal skylight, while African masks and oversized tusks crowd the sinuous ceiling moldings above the vibrantly patterned rugs. The very low lighting and upbeat music contribute to an atmosphere that feels more like the end of the night than the early morning, but fortunately, the breakfast is delicious, and the staff are attentive and pleasant, so we soon forgive the unicorn.
The glory of Bless is its rooftop, where the Picos Pardos Sky Lounge bar and restaurant has stunning views of the lower town: the sunsets are stunning. There's a laid-back, resort-like feel here: a small but shiny and inviting pool surrounded by cabana-style loungers (designed for couples, of course) and the cocktails are clearly serious, while the menu includes ceviches and carpaccios, with an emphasis on the fresh and raw. On my visit, the hosts and guests were young Maderileans and the atmosphere was relaxed and easy. Elsewhere in the hotel, SLVJ restaurant has a more formal atmosphere, with chef Fermín Azkue and mixologist Borja Goikoetxea. But you can't miss this roof.
In the very spacious bedrooms, the design style has become calmer and more comfortable, and the hotel beige color has made a comeback. The spacious bed was a delight. There were old-fashioned comforts, masses of natural light but delightful quiet high up on Velazquez Street; The spacious bathroom must have been a legacy of the older hotel: it could have been a bedroom on its own. (But here again, a bit of excessive fuss: The quaint, old-fashioned bathtub was filled with hydrangea heads and long sprigs of lavender—very pretty, but what on earth do you do with them if you actually want to have a bath?)
In a historic city building, space is at a premium, and the basement gym and spa are nothing if not compact. But everything has been taken into account, and in the spa there is a circular space with a sparkling central pool and walls decorated with garden scenes (a nod to Moorish history, perhaps) flanked by arched doors that lead to a hammam, a dry sauna, and an ice waterfall. Jacuzzi and more. I asked for advice, and the esthetician took one look at the bags under my eyes and prescribed an eye compression mask as part of a lymphatic massage; I was very, very happy for the next hour.
In a glance:
Rooms: 84 rooms, 27 suites
Good for: Sunset, easygoing atmosphere, great location
Not very good for: Minimalists and book lovers
FYI: Pet friendly – there are a lot of smart dogs around
Prices: double starting from 435 euros
Address: Calle de Velasquez 62, 28001 Madrid
website; directione
Jean Dali stayed as a guest at the Bless Hotel
What is your favorite stay in Madrid? Tell us in the comments below. And follow the FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
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