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This article is part of a guide to Zurich from FT Globetrotter
It's been almost 25 years since I first stayed at Hotel Baur au Lac, and I still find myself trying to pinpoint what makes this hotel so exceptional. I think the answer partly lies in the traditional Swiss character of the Hotel Boer, a quality that has been somewhat eroded throughout Switzerland as the country globalizes, but which the seventh generation of the Kracht family is maintaining, ensuring that the hotel remains fresh and contemporary. This is what defines the essence of a hotel: luxurious without being flashy, a process done with such thought and precision that everything seems effortless, a place that always feels familiar and stable but never stuffy or static. It is a very luxurious hotel and yet you always feel like you are coming home.
The hotel's location at the end of Lake Bahnhofstrasse is excellent. Everything is within walking distance: behind you, the main business and shopping areas; Across the bridge, Bellevueplatz, the opera, the galleries of Rammistrass and the Kunsthaus; It is located right in front of the lake, ideal for walking, jogging or swimming. Just across the street is the charming Bürkliplatz, which has a great food market on Tuesdays and Fridays where you can buy Swiss cheese, and on summer Saturdays, a lovely antiques market.
Sitting in the lobby, you witness the evolving cosmopolitanism of this city – a constant ebb and flow of influence, money and culture from the colonnaded front courtyard, through the revolving doors past the traditional newsstands to the hotel, and back again, visitors and guests. Locals alike. A constant ebb and flow for centuries: this is where Liszt used to stay (he invited Wagner to perform the premiere of Act I of Die Walküre), where Thomas Mann spent his honeymoon and where Marc Chagall turned his suite into a chaotic studio. .
The staff of 300 or so makes this hotel a warm and welcoming place: concierges, receptionists, telephone operators, baggage handlers, booth attendants, cooks, waiters, bartenders, bartenders, housekeepers, maids, and handymen (contains The hotel has its own upholsterer, electrician, carpenter, plumber, painter), in-house florist and even garage mechanic – each of them is a proud member of the hotel family, attentive and discreet. Mr. Marrow, the chef, has been with the hotel for 35 years, and Ms. Fisher, the florist, for 27 years.
Rooms
The rooms are warm and private. Many face the beautiful Schanzengraben Canal, while the larger suites overlook the lake. The decor is traditional with eclectic furnishings combining neoclassical, art deco and modern elements, hung with prints by the likes of Joan Miró and Le Corbusier. The bathrooms sparkle and contain Baur's own range of products, which visitors love very much.
garden
When the hotel opened in 1844, it was on the outskirts of the city, a luxurious villa set in a large park. The extensive garden remains an important part of the hotel, home to beehives (which provide honey for breakfast) and an herb garden that hosts events but also a lovely place to smoke a cigar under the giant ginkgo plant, whether on a cold winter morning or a balmy morning. Summer night. In the summer months you can have lunch or tea here. Look up and you will see the lake and mountains behind you.
Restaurants and bars
The focal point of the hotel is Baur's Le Hall lobby bar, an elegant lounge under a dome for coffee, tea, cocktails and snacks. In summer, the action moves to a spacious terrace at the front of the garden, where you can lunch on sea bass and steaks under the shade of a 19th-century sequoia and watch Le Tout Zurich.
The hotel has a stylish and modern brasserie Baur's, recently renovated by Martin Brudnizki in a relaxed green style, where classic dishes such as Zürich Geschnetzeltes (veal in cream sauce), Chateaubriand and saffron risotto are served alongside salads and fish.
Baur au Lac offers a delicious breakfast buffet, a selection of Swiss mountain dairy products, ham, breads with perfect crusts, excellent Bircher muesli and fruits.
In a glance:
Good for: Location, service and ambiance of a large hotel
Not very suitable for: The hotel does not have a formal spa, although in-room treatments are available, and many places near the Baddi area around the lake and river offer swimming from mid-April to late October.
FYI: The central lakeside location means that on some summer weekends, it's in the heart of festivals like Züri Fäscht (every three years) or the Street Parade – this may or may not suit you
Gym: The stunning views from the upper gym make you feel as if you are riding a bike across the lake to the Alps and back. Guests can also book Formula 1 performance coach Mark Arnall for the 'TravelFIT' programme.
Rooms and suites: 119 rooms, 18 suites
Prices: Double, from CHF 904 ($1,022/£812)
website; directione
Andrew Jones was a guest on Baur au Lac
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