Open Editor's Digest for free
Rula Khalaf, editor of the Financial Times, selects her favorite stories in this weekly newsletter.
This article is part of the FT Globetrotter's guide to Copenhagen
I was born in rural Jutland, far from the bright lights and culinary adventures of Copenhagen. I grew up on my father's farm, on the border of the forest, so I never felt, like many chefs who grew up in cities, that foraging for ingredients in the countryside was something new and exotic. For me, that was just everyday life. Instead, since I was (and still am) a tech geek, I cherished the times we went on school trips to Copenhagen. Since I didn't know anything about gastronomy at the time, the most mind-blowing experience for me was visiting the Copenhagen Planetarium – being transported to a completely new 360-degree reality. Later, that experience inspired me to design the main dining room of my restaurant in the shape of a planetarium.
I've lived in Copenhagen since 2015, and since most of the time since I moved here has been spent working, I still have a lot to discover. Therefore, my neighborhood is not where I live, but where my restaurant is: half of the former industrial island of Refshaloen, on the outskirts of central Copenhagen. The area is a vibrant mix of ugly and charming old buildings, with small businesses set up in shipping containers, and is developing rapidly, with gastronomy being one of the main drivers behind its popularity.
One of my favorite places is the Reffen Street Food Market, where visitors can enjoy food from all over the world. (My go-to takeaway there is Holy Krapow for its signature dish: Pad krapow, a Thai fried pork dish, and it's amazing.) Another not-to-be-missed spot is La Banchina, a moody waterfront restaurant with great winter menus, and Light in summer when crowds flock to the jetty just below in swimsuits, drinking wine between dips in the sea and visits to the on-site sauna. The best bakery here is Lille, which serves excellent lunches as well as delicious breads and baked goods. There is also a farm project with two tents, set up as restaurants, called Øens Have.
For a chef, there is always the challenge of staying creative. Sometimes I wish, like a musician, I could make an album, go on tour with it for a year, and then take a few months off to focus on the next one. With a restaurant open all year round, I need to come up with new things along with the “performance” every night. I used to go to restaurants for inspiration, but today I find that art is what can open my eyes and push me in new directions. We are very lucky to have such a vibrant arts scene in Copenhagen. The Copenhagen Contemporary Installation Center is our closest neighbor in Refshaleøen, and I go there whenever I can. Until August, there is a thought-provoking exhibition by Canadian artist Kapwani Kiwanga, whose works explore society and power dynamics, which I recommend visiting.
And in another part of Copenhagen, one of my favorite art experiences is the “Cisternerne” (Cisterns), an underground art space in the city’s former reservoir system. The place is magical and mysterious and lends itself to the most terrifying and immersive experiences ever. Another Louisiana favorite is the Museum of Modern Art north of Copenhagen. I visit beautiful places and landscapes as much as I visit art galleries. However, one of the city's most luxurious establishments is definitely Glyptukit – you can spend days here, exploring everything from ancient Egypt to French artists such as Cézanne and Renoir, all the while enjoying the city's magnificent architecture and inner garden oasis. Middle of everything. As for art galleries, I always discover new and exciting artists at Galleri Bo Bjeggaard.
When it comes to gastronomy, people often assume that I should only go for innovative, experimental restaurants, because [my restaurant] The Alchemist breaks with tradition, but in reality, I'm often pushed towards quite classic places. I think it's all about contradictions. Two of my favorite places are the French-leaning and quite rustic Maison (I recommend the steak au poivre) and Bistro Boheme for slightly more decadent fare (I always choose the oysters). Silberbauers Bistro is also a go-to for delicious Southern French-style seafood, like grilled sardines and mussels with garlic mayonnaise. For Italians, I love Barabba, which is open late and therefore very popular with hospitality workers, and Emilia for its fantastic pasta and the charming hospitality of Stefano and Noemi, who run the little place single-handedly.
As for Danish classics, anyone going to Copenhagen should enjoy at least one traditional lunch. Open sandwiches are their main claim to fame in our country, but they can vary in quality, especially in tourist places. I suggest trying them at Møntergade (don't miss the fried poached eggs and lobster when available), and Selma for its more modern dishes.
Coffee and baked goods are an integral part of Danish life – and it's no coincidence that the buttery, flaky pastries are named after our nationality – and my favorite places are Juno's Bakery (I'm obsessed with their cardamom cakes) and my former next door home Alice's Bakery, which in my opinion makes the best croissants in town . If you're visiting in the summer, don't miss the chance to eat homemade ice cream.
It's no secret that chefs consume a fair amount of fast food: it's a paradox that you spend your time taking care of every little detail in the kitchen, but you often need to find something to eat quickly – often in the middle of the night. After service. Even if I try to limit my intake these days, I fall off the wagon from time to time. Poulette and Gasoline Grill serves up the best fried chicken sandwiches and burgers in town, and if you're craving pizza there's no better place than Surt on Carlsberg Byen – a newer part of town in an old brewery 'village' that's well worth a visit. Slurp Ramen makes the best noodles in town, and for Mexican food Hija de Sanchez taqueria in Kødbyen (Meatpacking District) is the place to go.
I don't often go out for cocktails, but when I do I look for places that are comfortable and welcoming. Two places I love are Ruby and the hidden gem The Library Bar at the Copenhagen Plaza Hotel, where you can experience the atmosphere of the early 1900s among rare first edition books and comfortable classic English furniture – and there is often live jazz music late into the evening.
Rasmus Munk is the chef and co-owner of the two-Michelin-starred Alchemist restaurant in Copenhagen, an immersive dining experience named one of the 50 best restaurants in the world.
Share your most notable culinary and artistic experiences in Copenhagen in the comments below. And follow the FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
Cities with FT
FT Globetrotter, our insider guides to some of the world's greatest cities, offers expert advice on eating and drinking, exercise, art and culture – and much more.
Find us in Copenhagen, London, Hong Kong, Tokyo, New York, Paris, Rome, Frankfurt, Singapore, Miami, Toronto, Madrid, Melbourne, Zurich, Milan and Vancouver.
